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Flowers are like people: they grow, develop and are not immune from disease. It would seem, what could threaten under the protection of native home walls or in a cozy summer cottage sheltered from all the winds?
However, not a single green organism is immune from diseases and attacks of harmful insects.
And every owner who loves his blooming corner should know the rules for providing first aid to his fragile pets.
Below we will consider in detail with photos what kind of fungal diseases gloxinia can suffer from, and also show photos of viral and bacterial infections and tell you what methods to treat the plant with, as well as tell you about pest control.
Late blight is the most dangerous fungal disease for gloxinia. Dark brown specks appear on its leaves and stems from the outside.
With late blight, the outer part and petioles are covered with gray mold and dark stripes. Gloxinia roots begin to rot, it withers and becomes covered with weeping spots.
Causes of late blight disease:
- contaminated soil;
- stagnant water after irrigation;
- poor aeration of the roots;
- a sharp jump in temperatures during the growing season.
This disease can be cured only at the very beginning. Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate or preparations with copper are used. If there is no result, the plant, unfortunately, needs to be destroyed.
This trouble is caused by a fungus with the intricate name Sphaerotheca pannosa. The plant is covered with powdery whitish spots. They are easy to clean at first.
If the plant is sick with powdery mildew, over time it changes in color, turns brown and becomes denser. The fungus affects the entire plant as a whole - from the lower leaves to flowers, which alternately dry out.
The most common cause of this infection is high air humidity (80% or more) at low ambient temperatures. The affected areas are treated with weak solutions of potassium permanganate (2 grams per 10 liters of water) or low concentration of copper chloride. If the site is large, it is washed with a mixture of soap and soda ash (50 grams of both for a bucket of water), and then with Dectra, Topaz, Skor. The interval between treatments must be at least 7 days.
In extreme cases, antibiotics can be used: terramycin, streptomycin, penicillin. They are diluted in warm water in a 50/50 ratio and thoroughly washed with a cotton sponge several times in a row.
With this disease, the plant is covered not with whitish, but with gray mold, and the affected leaves do not dry out, but become covered with yellowish spots, turn black and fall off. The plant does not die as quickly as with powdery mildew. If the owner misses the moment and the plant falls into a temperature drop (for example, when very hot days change to cold nights), gloxinia will slowly but surely mold and weaken. The more swampy the soil, the more moisture, the more active the process will be.
With a strong defeat, it is pointless to try to cure the plant. But in the first stages, a solution of soda ash or 1% copper sulfate helps well. Use a soft cotton cloth or gauze to rinse.
Of the chemicals, Oxyhom and Kuproksat are suitable. Processing is carried out 5-6 times every 7 days.
Or, in other words, scab is characterized by the appearance of light brown spots - first on the leaves, and then on the stems and flowers.
The disease provokes a lack of potassium in the soil and excessive humidity. In gloxinia, the affected parts are removed, the stem and leaves are sprayed with a fungicide 3 times after 2 weeks.
It is imperative to feed with ballast-free potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.
Red plaques with brown rims - a sign of ascochitiscaused by high humidity in the room. The diseased leaves are burned, and the plant is sprayed with copper sulfate.
Excessive humidity and lack of light provoke this disease. Rust-colored spots appear on the leaves, the stems curl and dry out.
To avoid this infection, it is better not to expose gloxinia to the open air in wet weather. There must be enough nitrogen in the soil.
In case of significant damage, the plant is best destroyed in order to prevent infection of its neighbors. If the disease has just begun to develop, all infected parts must be removed and treated with preparations with copper or fungicides. Copper sulfate, Oxyhom, Abiga-Peak, Previkur, Ordan, Gold are used.
When the first signs of phyllostictosis are found - even round spots with a brown center and leaf breaks - gloxinia must be thoroughly dried, and then sprayed with copper sulfate or copper oxychloride.
The root cause is the infected substrate. The shoots are covered with cracks and dark streaks, and the leaves curl and wither. The roots and tuber are washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, then the gloxinia is transplanted into a new soil. Subsequent fungicide treatment is required!
If gloxinia has become soft and lethargic, its stems rot, and the leaves are captured by a watery gray mold - a gray rot has appeared. The whole point, as in the previous case, is in the soil. It is either too wet or too dense. The plant can be helped to cope with the disease with the substances Fundazol or Rovral.
It is important not to miss the moment - the treatment works only in the first stage.
You can find out more about diseases of gloxinia leaves and their treatment here, and in more detail about why the buds turn black, rot, dry, you can read here ..
Insect pests are the most common carriers of these viral diseases. The plant has reduced resistance to infections and reduced seed germination. This trouble can manifest itself in different ways: chlorotic dots on the leaves, strokes of different lengths on the stems and flowers, rotting roots. Unfortunately viral diseases are not amenable to treatment at the moment... The plant will have to be destroyed.
Viruses do not multiply outside living cells, but retain their virulence for a long time. They are superior to bacterial and fungal diseases in harmfulness.
The affected plant can live for a long time, this is the peculiarity of the disease.
The pathogen is transmitted through damage, sometimes invisible to the eye. It can get into the owner's green area with poor quality soil, an untreated pot or other equipment.
With bacteriosis, mucous spots appear on the leaves of gloxinia, and growths on the stem and roots. Bacteriosis cannot be treated.
Basic rules of prevention:
- disinfection of tools, soil and planting containers;
- treatment of fresh wounds on the plant when processing with charcoal;
- the use of immunostimulants: Epin and Zircon.
- Spider mite... It settles on the back of the leaves, gradually enveloping the plant with cobwebs from all sides. Tiny puncture punctures appear on the leaves - necrotic foci remaining from tick bites. At the same time, the plant dries: merging, the dots form large dry areas, the decorative effect of the species is lost, the leaf blades fall off, curling unnaturally.
It is carried in with newly acquired plants or a gust of wind through an open window. You can use gentle methods of exposure (biological acaricides Vertimek, Fitoverm, Akarin; plant chamomile, marigolds, which ticks do not tolerate, side by side with gloxinia) or treat with chemical acaricides (Omite, Neoron).
Individuals of this species move very quickly, so the affected plant should be immediately transferred to the quarantine zone.
- Cyclamen mite... Colonies of cyclamen mites appear as dust patches on the underside of leaves. Gloxinia loses buds, its stem is twisted. These insects are easy to bring on streetwear or an umbrella. They can be quickly destroyed with the acarine acaricide by treating the plant 3 times with an interval of 7 days.
- Thrips... They feed on plant juice and nectar, multiply rapidly and are able to quickly destroy more than one plant. Insects are washed off in the shower, and leaves and flowers are sprayed with Intavir or Aktar.
- Shield... The scale insects, having chosen the plant, cover it with a sticky film and, fixing themselves in one place, draw the juice. The plant is washed with soapy water, shaking off insects with a cotton swab, then any insecticidal solution is used.
- Whitefly... These butterflies reproduce very quickly, laying many larvae on the leaves.
It is imperative to remove the top layer of soil in the pot, cut off the heavily affected leaves, which remain covered with an insecticide.
- Mealybug... These tiny white caterpillar-like insects cover the stems and infect the root system, but are easily destroyed by green soap solution, tobacco or garlic infusions. With a large number of individuals, Mospilan, Fito, Aktara help.
Below you can see photos of insects that harm Gloxinia.
Common Problems - Causes and Solutions
- Why do the peduncles turn black and the plant withers? The reason may be pityal rot, which has arisen due to waterlogging of the soil. The soil is abundantly watered with Fundazol, the plant is also sprayed.
- Why does gloxinia stretch and what should be done in this case? A strongly elongated shoot indicates an excess of nitrogen in the soil, as well as a lack of lighting and an excess of heat. It is necessary to reduce the room temperature with wet cleaning and spraying, more often use phytolamps.
- Why does Gloxinia crochet? The reason is inaccuracies in caring for the plant at home: too high room temperature or drafts. The flower needs to be allocated a new place.
How to reanimate a flower when decaying?
Damaged areas should be cut out to healthy tissue, then soak the tuber in Fitosporin solution for a couple of hours, dry and lubricate with Maxim.
We offer you to watch a video about diseases and pests of gloxinia:
So, we told how to save a flower from disease and decay. But the main thing that the owner of a green corner should remember is prevention. Constant examination, attentiveness, accuracy will help the plant to remain healthy and beautiful for a long time. Who, if not a loving owner, can handle this better?